

This photo is where I found the reported ape indices of Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, and Lynn Hill.A +7-inch ape index is already incredible. Because the video is of him training at Café Kraft in Germany, I’ve interpreted it as 18 centimeters, or about 7 inches. In this video, Kai Lightner says his ape index is +18.Note: If you know the ape index of a famous climber not listed here, put it in the comments below along with the source and we’ll add it to the list!Ĭompare your ape index with some of the world’s greatest climbers: Climber The downside to this method is that, unless it’s 0, your ape index changes depending on whether you’re using inches or centimeters. Using this method, the typical ape index is 0. When expressed as the difference between wingspan and height, Woods has a +4 ape index in inches, or a +10.2 ape index in centimeters.īottom line: This is the most common way climbers express their ape index. To calculate the difference you simply subtract his height from his wingspan: Method #2: Difference Between Wingspan & HeightĮxample: Daniel Woods is 5′ 8″ (68 in or 172.7 cm) with a 72-inch (182.9 cm) wingspan. The advantage of expressing your ape index as a ratio is that it will stay the same regardless of whether you calculate it using inches or centimeters. A number greater than one means your wingspan is greater than your height, and a number less than one means your height is greater than your wingspan. When expressed as a ratio, Woods has an ape index of 1.06.īottom line: The typical ape index ratio is 1.

To calculate his ape index as a ratio you divide his wingspan by his height: Method #1: Wingspan to Height RatioĮxample: Daniel Woods, arguably the greatest boulderer of all time, is 5′ 8″ (68 in) with a 72-inch wingspan. There are two ways to calculate your ape index: divide your wingspan by your height or subtract your height from your wingspan. The ape index is measured because in sports like rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball it’s considered an advantage to have long arms for your height. It’s believed that most people’s wingspan is equivalent to their height, meaning most people have a neutral ape index or, put another way, an ape index ratio of 1. The ape index is a measurement of how your wingspan (aka arm span) compares to your height.
